Haji Ali Dargah

This vada was peppered with — it took me a moment — dill, an ingredient I haven't seen used this way since samosas down South. The guy was preoccupied with a kid splashing in his bucket, but I'll have to go back and ask.

Then it was splashed with a chutney I can only describe as salsa. It was fresh, it was made of crushed tomatoes, and it had a gentle bite. This brought back a flash of döner in Istanbul, though it's also served, at least in memory, alongside the kebabs outside Bandra station — you know, in front of the Lijjat Papad office.